Plastering — London
Plastering across all 33 London boroughs
Skim coat, full two-coat plaster, dry-lining, artex encapsulation, coving, lime plaster for Victorian properties, and replastering after damp treatment or rewire. Experienced plasterers working across every London borough.
- ✓All 33 London boroughs
- ✓Victorian lime plaster specialists
- ✓Artex encapsulation
- ✓Salt-resistant renovation plaster
- ✓60 Checkatrade · 120 MyBuilder reviews
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London boroughs covered
Every area of London
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All trades under one company
Understanding the options
Skim coat or full plaster — which do you need?
The most common question we receive is whether a room needs a skim coat or full replastering. The answer depends on the condition of the existing base coat — the layer of plaster beneath the finish surface. If the base is sound and well-bonded to the wall, a skim coat is the right choice. If the base has failed — if it sounds hollow when tapped, is crumbling, or has delaminated from the wall — skim coat will not hold and full replastering is required.
Testing the base is a simple process. Tap the wall systematically with your knuckle — a hollow, drum-like sound indicates the plaster has separated from the substrate behind it. Press firmly in several places; sound base coat does not flex or creak. In Victorian and Edwardian properties, large areas of lath and plaster ceiling or wall may be hollow simply due to age, and a patch repair is not always viable — the weight of a new skim may be sufficient to bring down loosely attached sections if the base is not sound throughout.
Over new plasterboard, a skim coat is always the right specification. Plasterboard is designed as a base coat substrate and should be skimmed — applying a bonding or browning coat over board is unnecessary and adds drying time and cost without improving the finished surface.
Skim coat is right when:
- ✓Existing base coat is sound and well-bonded
- ✓Working over new plasterboard
- ✓Refreshing an old but stable surface
- ✓Budget and programme are the priority
- ✓Drying time needs to be minimised
Full plaster is required when:
- ✓Base coat is hollow, blown, or failing
- ✓Plastering directly onto bare brick or blockwork
- ✓Replastering after damp treatment or rewire
- ✓Walls are significantly out of plumb
- ✓Conservation area or listed building specification requires it
What we do
Plastering services in London
Skim coat plastering
A 2–3mm finish coat of multi-finish gypsum plaster applied over existing base coat or plasterboard. The right choice where the base is sound and the goal is a smooth, paint-ready surface. One day per average room. Must be allowed to dry fully — 2–4 weeks — before decoration.
Full two-coat plastering
Scratch coat (browning or bonding plaster at 11mm) followed by finish skim. Required for bare brick, blockwork, or where the existing base has failed. Produces a flat, true surface from scratch. Drying time 4–6 weeks. Ideal after a rewire or damp treatment where walls have been stripped back.
Dry-lining (plasterboard and skim)
Plasterboard fixed to walls or ceiling joists by dot and dab adhesive or mechanical fixing, followed by taped joints and a skim coat finish. Fast and cost-effective for new partitions, thermal upgrades, or rooms where the existing plaster has failed beyond economic repair. The finished surface is identical to traditional plaster.
Patching and repair
Targeted repair of failed sections — cracks, blown areas, impact damage, and localised damp-related failure. Matching the repair to the existing material is critical, particularly in Victorian properties where lime plaster repairs require NHL lime mix rather than gypsum to avoid re-cracking.
Coving and cornice
Fitting plaster cove in standard rooms, or restoring original Victorian and Edwardian cornicing using run-in-place technique or GRP reproduction sections. Pre-formed GRP cornices are cast from original period moulds and are the correct method for listed buildings and conservation area properties where original profiles must be matched.
Artex removal and skim-over
Skim-over (encapsulation) is our standard approach for pre-1985 artex where asbestos risk cannot be ruled out without testing. A bonding coat is applied to flatten the texture, then skim finish is applied. Where asbestos testing confirms no chrysotile content, wet-scrape removal followed by skim is also available.
New partition walls
Stud wall framing in timber or metal sections, plasterboard fixed to both faces, joints taped and filled, and a full skim coat applied. We can incorporate door openings, squared archways, and boxing for pipework or cables. Structural openings require building regulations approval — we advise on this.
Replastering after damp treatment
Standard gypsum plaster fails in high-salt conditions left behind after damp treatment — the hygroscopic salts in the masonry draw moisture through and the plaster blows within months. The correct specification is a salt-resistant renovation plaster such as Roc Salt Plaster or an NHL lime mix. We use renovation plaster as standard for all replastering following damp treatment.
Replastering after rewire
A full rewire leaves first-fix chases across walls and ceilings, boxes out for sockets and switches, and often strips back plaster to expose cable runs. Once the electrician has completed first fix and the building control inspection is passed, we make good all chases with bonding plaster and apply a full skim to restore the surface.
Period properties
Plastering in Victorian and Edwardian London properties
The majority of London's housing stock was built between 1880 and 1939. These Victorian and Edwardian properties were constructed with lime-based plaster throughout — a fundamentally different material from the gypsum plaster used in all modern construction since the 1950s. Understanding this distinction is not a matter of heritage preference; it has direct practical consequences for how plaster repairs are specified and carried out.
Original lime plaster is a three-coat system: a lath and plaster ground coat of coarse lime and sand over timber laths, a floating coat, and a final lime finish coat. This system is breathable — it allows moisture vapour to pass through the wall, which is how solid brick walls are designed to manage dampness. Lime plaster is also flexible, accommodating the natural seasonal movement of old brick and timber structures without cracking.
Patching lime plaster walls with gypsum is the most common plastering mistake in period London properties. Gypsum is rigid and does not breathe. Applied over or adjacent to lime plaster, the two materials move at different rates and the repair cracks open again within months. For a lasting repair, lime plaster should be repaired with lime — specifically a natural hydraulic lime (NHL) mix with a strength grading matched to the existing material. NHL 2 or NHL 3.5 mixed with sharp sand is appropriate for most Victorian interior plaster repairs.
Conservation areas and listed buildings
Listed buildings require consent for internal alterations that affect original fabric — and original lime plaster is considered original fabric. In a Grade II listed property, replacing original lath and plaster with modern plasterboard and skim is a listed building consent breach, even if the work is entirely internal. Conservation areas do not restrict internal work in the same way, but matching materials and techniques is generally expected. We provide written specifications suitable for submission with listed building consent applications where required.
High ceilings in period London properties
Victorian reception rooms and hallways in London commonly have ceiling heights of 3.5–4 metres (12–13 feet). Achieving a properly finished skim coat on a ceiling at this height requires either plastering stilts or scaffolding. We use stilts for standard residential heights up to 4 metres. Above 4 metres — found in ground-floor reception rooms of large Kensington and Islington townhouses — low-level scaffold boards on trestles are required. We include the appropriate access equipment in all quotes for high-ceiling work.
Artex and asbestos
Artex ceilings in London — what you need to know
Artex is a textured coating applied to ceilings and walls, most widely used in London properties built or refurbished between the late 1960s and the mid-1980s. It was popular as a quick finish that concealed imperfections and required no further decoration. You will recognise it as the stippled, swirled, or patterned texture on ceilings in countless London flats, terraced houses, and 1970s purpose-built blocks.
The key concern with artex applied before 1985 is the potential presence of chrysotile (white asbestos) as a reinforcing additive. Chrysotile was used in artex formulations up until the mid-1980s when it was phased out. A property where the ceilings were coated during this period may have chrysotile present in the artex layer. The material presents no risk when left undisturbed — chrysotile fibres are only released when the artex is sanded, scraped dry, or otherwise mechanically disturbed.
Our standard approach for artex is encapsulation: applying a bonding coat over the existing texture to flatten it, then skimming over the top with a finish coat. This method seals the artex permanently beneath a new plaster surface without releasing any fibres. It is faster, cleaner, and safer than removal, and produces a smooth, paint-ready finish identical to a standard skim coat. Where customers require asbestos testing before proceeding, we work with accredited testing laboratories and can arrange a sample analysis before works commence.
Properties built or refurbished before 1985
Artex ceilings are likely to contain chrysotile. Skim-over encapsulation is the correct approach. Do not sand or dry-scrape.
Properties built or refurbished after 1985
Artex is unlikely to contain asbestos. Wet-scrape removal or skim-over are both available options.
Unknown date — testing recommended
Where the property history is unclear, a sample test by an accredited laboratory (typically £60–£120) confirms the position before we proceed.
Very heavy texture — plasterboard overlay
Extremely thick artex patterns may be better addressed by overlaying with plasterboard fixed to the joists and skimming the new boards — this eliminates the texture entirely and produces a perfectly flat ceiling.
After damp treatment
Replastering after damp treatment — salt-resistant plaster
Replastering after damp treatment is one of the most technically specific plastering jobs in London's housing stock, and it is frequently done incorrectly. When rising damp or penetrating damp has affected a wall, the moisture carries soluble salts from the masonry into the plaster layer. Once the damp treatment is complete and the wall begins to dry, these salts migrate to the surface as the moisture evaporates — a process that continues for months or years.
Standard gypsum plaster fails in high-salt conditions. The hygroscopic salts are highly effective at drawing moisture from the air, and this residual moisture causes the gypsum plaster to soften, blister, and eventually detach from the wall. We have attended properties where standard gypsum was applied over a damp-treated wall only to fail completely within six to twelve months — a costly mistake that requires a full second round of hacking off and replastering.
The correct specification for replastering after damp treatment is a salt-resistant renovation plaster. Products such as Roc Salt Plaster or Auro renovation plaster are formulated to tolerate high salt concentrations while remaining stable. These products are applied as a full base coat and skim system in the same way as standard plaster but are substantially more tolerant of the ongoing salt migration from the masonry. In Victorian London properties with solid brick construction and a history of rising damp, this specification is the only reliable long-term solution.
Why standard gypsum fails after damp treatment
- ✓Soluble salts from masonry migrate through the new plaster as the wall dries
- ✓Hygroscopic salts draw atmospheric moisture into the plaster layer
- ✓Repeated wetting and drying cycles cause gypsum to soften and blister
- ✓Plaster detaches from wall within 6–18 months — requiring full redo
- ✓Renovation plaster is formulated to remain stable in high-salt conditions
- ✓All our damp-treatment replastering is specified with salt-resistant renovation plaster as standard
Coving and cornice
Restoring and fitting coving and cornice in London
Coving and cornicing are standard features in Victorian and Edwardian London properties, and missing or damaged sections significantly affect the finished appearance of a room. The two types of work are distinct: fitting new plaster cove in a standard room where none exists, and restoring or matching original period cornice profiles in period properties.
Pre-formed plaster cove — the standard 90mm or 127mm cove fitted in most rooms — is a straightforward job. The cove is fixed with plaster adhesive at the wall-ceiling junction, mitre-cut at corners, and finished with a skim of finishing plaster over the joints. A typical room can be coved in a day. This is the appropriate specification for modern properties, post-war houses, and period properties where original cornicing is absent.
Restoring original Victorian or Edwardian cornice is a more demanding task. Original cornice profiles were run in place using a template and lime plaster — a skill known as fibrous plasterwork. Where original sections have been damaged or removed, the options are: run new cornice in place to match the original profile (the traditional method, suitable for listed buildings and where an exact match is required), or cast GRP (glass-reinforced polymer) sections from the surviving profile and fix them mechanically. GRP reproductions are cast from period moulds and are the standard conservation method for partial cornice restoration — they are lighter than lime-run sections and produce a dimensionally accurate match to the original.
Standard plaster cove
£200–£350 per room
Pre-formed 90mm or 127mm plaster cove fitted with adhesive and skimmed over joints. Fast and economical. Appropriate for all modern and post-war rooms.
Large-format cove
£300–£500 per room
Larger pre-formed cove sections — 150mm and above — for rooms with higher ceilings or where a more substantial cornice profile is desired.
GRP reproduction cornice
£400–£800 per room
Cast sections reproducing original Victorian or Edwardian profiles. Mechanically fixed, joints made good in plaster. The conservation-standard method for partial restorations.
Run-in-place lime cornice
Quoted per job
Traditional lime plaster cornice run in place to match an existing profile. Required for listed building specifications. Labour-intensive — quoted on profile and perimeter length.
Drying times
How long does plaster take to dry?
Painting over wet plaster is the single most common cause of plaster finish failure. The paint seals the surface, traps moisture beneath it, and the new skim detaches in patches within weeks. Allow the times below as a minimum before decorating. The plaster is ready when it has turned uniformly pale with no dark, damp areas remaining — then apply a mist coat (emulsion diluted 50/50 with water) as a first coat to allow the plaster to breathe further before full decoration.
2–4 weeks
Skim coat over existing base
Standard finish skim at 2–3mm over sound existing plaster or plasterboard. Assumes good ventilation and room temperature 18–22°C.
4–6 weeks
Full two-coat plaster
Browning or bonding scratch coat plus finish skim. The thicker base coat holds substantially more water and takes longer to release it.
6–8 weeks
Lime plaster (NHL mix)
Natural hydraulic lime cures slowly and must not be sealed with non-breathable paint. Mineral paint or limewash is the correct decoration.
4–8 weeks
Renovation plaster (after damp)
Salt-resistant renovation plaster over previously damp walls. Drying time extends further if the wall is still releasing residual moisture after treatment.
Typical costs in London
Plastering costs in London
£400–£900
Skim coat — single room (ceiling and walls)
Typical London reception room or bedroom. Includes surface preparation, bonding coat where required, and finish skim. Price varies with room size and ceiling height.
£2,500–£5,000
Full two-coat plaster — 3-bed house
Whole-house replastering including all rooms, hallway, and landing. Includes hacking off existing plaster, rendering scratch coat, and finish skim throughout.
£80–£200
Patch repair per wall section
Localised repair of failed, cracked, or blown plaster. Price varies with size and depth of repair and whether lime or gypsum specification is required.
£200–£500
Coving — per room
Fitting pre-formed plaster or GRP coving, or restoring original period cornicing. Price varies with profile complexity and perimeter length.
All prices are indicative ranges for typical London domestic properties. Final quotes depend on room size, ceiling height, access requirements, condition of existing surfaces, and specification (gypsum, renovation plaster, or lime). Prices quoted include materials, labour, and clearing up. Scaffolding for very high ceilings is priced separately.
Why Prestige Engineers
Plasterers who understand London's housing stock
Lime plaster specialists
We specify and apply NHL lime plaster mixes for period property repairs — not gypsum applied over lime, which fails. This is a meaningful technical distinction that most generalist plasterers do not make.
Correct specification after damp
Every job involving replastering after a damp treatment is specified with salt-resistant renovation plaster as standard. We do not apply standard gypsum in these conditions regardless of cost pressure — it simply does not work.
Artex managed safely
Our standard approach for artex of unknown age is encapsulation — no disturbance, no asbestos risk, and a smooth finished ceiling. We never sand or dry-scrape pre-1985 artex without prior asbestos testing.
Full multi-trade service
As a multi-trade contractor we can manage the full sequence for a rewire or damp treatment job: first fix by our electricians or damp specialists, followed immediately by our plasterers for the make-good. One point of contact, no coordination gaps.
Covering all 33 boroughs
We work across every London borough from Barnet to Bromley and Hillingdon to Havering. Free quotes are provided for all plastering work. We carry stock of renovation plaster and lime materials and do not order to job.
Conservation area experience
For work in conservation areas and listed buildings, we provide written specifications suitable for planning and listed building consent submissions. We understand the difference between what local authorities require in writing and what is practical on site.
Common questions
Plastering in London: frequently asked
How long before I can paint after plastering?
For a skim coat applied over an existing sound base coat, allow a minimum of 2–4 weeks before painting in typical London indoor conditions. For full two-coat plaster (scratch coat plus finish coat), the drying time is 4–6 weeks. These times assume normal room temperature and adequate ventilation. Painting over wet plaster is one of the most common causes of finish failure — the paint seals the surface and traps moisture, which then forces the new skim off the base in patches. The plaster is ready when it has turned uniformly pale across the entire surface with no dark, damp patches remaining. A primer coat of mist coat (heavily diluted emulsion) should be applied before full decoration.
What is the difference between skim coat plastering and full plastering?
A skim coat is a single thin finishing layer of plaster — typically 2–3mm — applied directly over an existing base coat or plasterboard that is in sound condition. It is the right choice when the underlying base has not failed, when you are working over new plasterboard, or when an existing surface needs to be refreshed and smoothed. Full two-coat plastering involves applying a thicker base or scratch coat first (typically 11mm of browning or bonding plaster) followed by the 2–3mm skim finish coat on top. Full plaster is required when the existing base has failed, when you are plastering bare brick or blockwork, or when you need to build out an uneven surface. The distinction matters for cost and drying time: a skim costs roughly half as much as full plaster and dries in half the time.
Can you plaster over artex ceilings in a London property?
In most cases, yes — skimming over artex (encapsulation) is both possible and the recommended approach where asbestos risk cannot be ruled out. Artex was a common ceiling and wall coating applied throughout the 1970s and into the 1980s. Artex applied before 1985 may contain chrysotile (white asbestos) as a reinforcing fibre. Disturbing it by sanding, dry-scraping, or wet-removal is a licensed asbestos activity. Skimming over it encapsulates the material safely without releasing fibres. To skim over artex successfully, the existing texture must be flattened with a bonding agent or bonding coat before the finish skim is applied — otherwise the texture telegraphs through the new plaster surface. For ceilings with a very heavy stippled or swirled texture, a plasterboard overlay (dot and dab or fixed to battens) followed by skim is sometimes cleaner than attempting to plaster over the texture directly.
How long does plastering a room take?
A typical London reception room — four walls and a ceiling, around 40–50 square metres of surface — takes one experienced plasterer one to two days to complete when skimming over existing plaster or plasterboard. Full two-coat plastering of the same room takes two to three days because the scratch coat must be allowed to go off before the finish coat can be applied. Larger rooms, rooms requiring a lot of preparation (hacking off failed plaster, filling and making good), or rooms with coving and cornicing work will take longer. Preparation is often the most time-consuming part of the job — the quality of the finished surface depends entirely on the quality of the surface preparation before the plaster is applied.
Do I need lime plaster in my Victorian property?
Not necessarily for all repairs, but it is strongly advisable for repairs to existing lime plaster walls and for any work in conservation areas or listed buildings. Victorian and Edwardian properties were built with lime-based plaster — a mix of lime putty or hydraulic lime, sand, and animal hair — applied in three coats onto lath and plaster grounds. This material is flexible and breathable. Patching lime plaster with modern gypsum plaster is a common mistake that causes problems: gypsum is rigid and non-breathable, and the different rates of movement between the two materials cause cracks to re-open. For like-for-like repair, we use an NHL (natural hydraulic lime) mix appropriate to the lime content of the existing plaster. For whole-room replastering of a Victorian house, you may choose between lime and modern gypsum — both are acceptable, but lime is the correct specification for listed buildings and is preferred in conservation areas.
Get a free quote
Plastering work anywhere in London?
Skim coat, full plaster, lime plaster for Victorian properties, artex encapsulation, coving, or replastering after damp or rewire. Free quotes across all 33 London boroughs.